Hairstyles Guide: How to Choose a Style for Your Hair Type

9 min read
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Image Credit: Pexels / Yan Krukau

The best hairstyle suits your hair texture, length, density and daily routine without causing persistent pulling, pain or breakage. Loose ponytails, relaxed buns, braids, twists, natural curls and softly pinned styles can all be practical choices when created gently.

You do not need to choose according to strict rules about face shape or age. Start with what feels comfortable, then consider time, hold, weather, work, exercise and tension.

A hairstyle should not hurt. Repeatedly wearing tight ponytails, buns, braids, cornrows, extensions or weaves can contribute to traction alopecia. Hair may recover when tension is reduced early, but long-term pulling can cause permanent loss.

How to choose the right hairstyle

Ask:

  • How much time do I have?
  • Must the style last all day?
  • Is my hair straight, wavy, curly or coily?
  • Are strands fine, medium or coarse?
  • Is density low, medium or high?
  • Does hair become oily, dry or frizzy?
  • Is it coloured or damaged?
  • Do I want to use heat?
  • Will the style place tension on my scalp?
  • Do I need a hat, helmet or uniform?
  • Can I remove it without pulling or cutting hair?

Adapt the method, products and accessories rather than assuming your hair is the problem.

Hairstyles for different hair types

Straight hair

Options include sleek low ponytail, loose high ponytail, claw-clip twist, bob, lob, half-up style, low bun, French twist, soft waves, braided ponytail, side part, curtain fringe and bubble ponytail.

Fine straight hair may benefit from lightweight mousse, root spray or dry texture spray. Thicker hair may need stronger pins, larger ties and sectioning.

Wavy hair

Try loose waves, half-up claw clip, low textured bun, messy ponytail, loose braid, side braid, soft updo, wavy bob, layered lob, twisted half-up style, braided crown or air-dried waves.

Apply mousse, foam, light gel or curl cream to damp hair and scrunch upwards. Let it dry without repeatedly touching it.

Curly hair

Options include wash-and-go, curly ponytail, pineapple, half-up curls, curly bun, high or low puff, side-parted curls, braided front sections, curly fringe, twist-out, braid-out, claw-clip updo and pinned curls.

Apply products to wet or damp hair in sections. Leave-in conditioner provides softness, while gel or mousse adds hold. Avoid dry brushing unless it is part of the intended look.

Coily and Afro-textured hair

Options include afro, high or low puff, wash-and-go, two-strand twists, flat twists, twist-out, braid-out, cornrows, box or knotless braids, Bantu knots, halo braid, low bun, tucked updo, locs and wigs over gently prepared hair.

Protective styling can reduce manipulation but must not be excessively tight, heavy or left in place while the scalp is painful.

Hairstyles for fine, thick and different hair lengths

Fine hair

Blunt bob, blunt lob, soft layers, textured pixie, loose waves, half-up ponytail, low loose bun, side part, tousled ponytail and short curtain fringe can create the appearance of fullness.

Use volumising mousse, root spray, light texture spray, flexible hairspray and occasional dry shampoo. Avoid heavy oils and thick creams near roots. Tight backcombing can weaken fine hair.

Thick hair

Try long layers, braided ponytail, low bun, French or Dutch braid, claw-clip twist, half-up bun, layered curls, shoulder-length cut and twisted updo.

Section hair during styling and choose accessories large enough to hold it without excessive pressure.

Short hair

Ideas include pixie cut, textured crop, French bob, blunt bob, curly bob, slicked-back crop, side-parted bob, finger waves, mini twists, short afro and headband style.

Begin with a small amount of pomade, wax or styling cream. Mousse or texture spray can create a softer finish.

Medium-length hair

Try low ponytail, claw-clip twist, half-up bun, French braid, loose waves, textured lob, low chignon, bubble ponytail, braided crown, curly updo and side braid.

Pins, flexible hairspray or texture spray can improve hold when layers slip out.

Long hair

Try loose braid, low ponytail, braided ponytail, low bun, half-up style, rope, French or Dutch braid, loose waves, claw-clip twist, twisted bun and side braid.

Avoid the same tight high ponytail every day. Move tied styles and use soft covered ties. Divide very long or dense hair into sections before pinning to distribute weight.

Easy everyday hairstyles

Low ponytail

Gather hair at the nape and secure with a covered elastic. Keep enough looseness near the scalp that the hairline is not pulled.

Claw-clip twist

Gather as for a low ponytail, twist upwards and secure the centre with a suitably sized clip. Do not force a small clip around too much hair.

Half-up style

Separate hair above the ears and secure with a clip, tie or pins. This keeps hair away from the face while leaving lengths loose.

Loose braid

Divide hair into three sections and braid without pulling tightly near the scalp. Use a soft tie at the end.

Low bun

Create a low ponytail, twist gently and pin into a bun. Loosen the hairline if it feels tight.

Hairstyles for work, exercise and sleep

For work, options include low ponytail, low bun, French twist, claw-clip updo, neat braid, half-up style, short structured cut, natural curls, twists, locs and braided bun.

Follow workplace safety and hygiene guidance where hair needs to be securely tied.

For exercise, try low braided ponytail, two loose braids, high puff with soft band, low or braided bun, short ponytail with headband or sectioned ponytails for dense hair. Use a covered elastic and alternate positions.

For sleep, try loose braid, two loose braids, loose pineapple, large twists, loose low ponytail, gentle wrap, satin bonnet or smooth pillowcase. Avoid tight clips, hard pins and high buns pressing against the scalp.

Hairstyles for weddings and special occasions

Ideas include low chignon, textured bun, Hollywood waves, half-up curls, braided crown, French twist, curly updo, sleek ponytail, twisted bun, side-swept waves, decorated braids and pinned natural curls.

Arrange a trial for important events, particularly when using extensions, padding or accessories. Wear the trial long enough to check for headaches, pinching or scalp pain.

Heatless, sleek and braided styles

Heatless options include overnight braids, curling ribbon, foam rollers, flexi rods, Bantu knot-out, twist-out, braid-out, pin curls and sock curls.

Hair should be damp rather than soaking wet unless the method specifically requires otherwise. Do not wrap it tightly for many hours.

For sleek styles, detangle gently, use a small amount of cream, mousse or gel, smooth with a soft brush, gather without force and secure with a covered elastic. Natural texture around the hairline is preferable to tension and breakage.

Braids should not cause pain, headaches, stinging, bumps, crusting, redness, immediate breakage or difficulty sleeping. Ask the stylist to loosen the hair if needed.

Are protective hairstyles always protective?

No. A protective style can reduce daily combing and keep ends tucked away, but may cause damage if too tight, heavy or poorly maintained.

A protective style should feel comfortable from the beginning, allow scalp access, avoid pulling the hairline, use manageable extension weight, be installed on healthy skin and be removed carefully.

What is traction alopecia?

Traction alopecia is hair loss caused by repeated or prolonged pulling. It commonly affects temples, front hairline, sides, above the ears and areas between tight braids.

Early signs include broken hairs, bumps, tenderness, itching, redness, thinning around edges, widening hairline and short hairs around tied areas.

Reduce tension early. Long-standing traction can damage follicles and cause permanent loss.

How to reduce hairstyle tension

Choose looser ponytails and buns, covered elastics, changing the position of tied styles, shorter or lighter extensions, no painful sleeping styles, looser braids, breaks for the hairline and less edge brushing.

Remove any style that causes pain, bumps or soreness. A hairstyle should not need several days to become comfortable.

Choose accessories with smooth surfaces, including fabric-covered elastics, spiral ties, satin scrunchies, smooth claw clips, wide fabric bands, rounded pins and soft ribbons.

Avoid exposed metal joins, ordinary rubber bands, broken clips, tight headbands and heavy decorations.

Using styling products safely

Use hairspray in a ventilated area, avoid breathing mist, follow the labelled distance and keep aerosols away from flames and heat.

Apply gel in a small amount to damp or dry hair. Allow it to dry before touching. Stop if it causes scalp itching, burning or rash.

Warm a small amount of wax or pomade between fingers before applying. Heavy products may build up, particularly on fine hair; shampoo thoroughly and clarify occasionally if needed.

How to use heat tools with less damage

Use heat protectant, dry hair fully before straightening, choose the lowest effective temperature, work in sections, avoid repeated passes, keep tools moving, clean plates and barrels and limit high heat.

Heat protectant reduces some damage but cannot make hair immune to high temperatures. Fine, bleached or damaged hair usually needs less heat than coarse untreated hair.

Can hairstyles hide thinning hair?

Changing the parting, shorter layers, soft waves, root spray, hair fibres, loose fringe, volumising mousse, gentle blow-drying and low-tension wigs or toppers may reduce visible contrast.

Avoid hiding thinning by pulling remaining hair tightly. Sudden, patchy or progressive thinning should be assessed.

Hairstyles during pregnancy and after birth

Pregnancy can change hair texture, growth and oiliness. After birth, increased shedding may occur as the hair cycle changes.

Try loose braid, low ponytail, claw-clip twist, manageable cut, loose bun, soft headband, natural curls or low-tension styles. Speak to a GP if loss is severe, patchy, associated with scalp symptoms or continues for several months.

Common hairstyle mistakes

Avoid wearing the same tight style every day, ignoring pain, using ordinary rubber bands, tying wet hair tightly, adding too much extension weight, repeated high heat, brushing curls dry, pulling at the hairline, leaving protective styles too long or cutting out tangled accessories.

Pain means the style is placing too much tension on the scalp. Loosen or remove it.

When to get professional help

Speak to a GP or dermatologist about sudden or significant hair loss, bald patches, rapidly widening parting, receding hairline, thinning around temples or edges, loss where braids or extensions attach, scalp pain, burning, tenderness, pus-filled bumps, thick scale, crusting, spreading rash, smooth areas without hair or loss with tiredness or other symptoms.

Stop wearing a style if it causes pain, bumps, crusting or visible thinning. Seek prompt advice for increasing scalp pain, warmth, swelling or pus.

Seek urgent medical help if a styling product causes difficulty breathing, faintness or swelling of your lips, mouth, tongue or throat.

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